Halloween Done Properly

HAPPY HALLOWEEN!














I don't know if you guys remember the debacle that was last year's Halloween, but we were not about to let that happen again. First of all, I was not going to have D sick on Halloween for the third year in a row, so I started fortifying him with Vitamin C a week before. I am happy to say he made it.

Despite the typhoon-y weather, we had a a proper Halloween party this year, costumes required. Some people were lame and didn't bother (I won't mention any names, okay, Helen), but most of our friends made an effort at least. Jeff was especially proud that he did the Ramen-Snack Panda right this time, having been planning it since last Halloween.




















It was a great night. It's funny how we can have a successful party in Japan and I can't even talk to half of the guests. But everyone seemed to have fun. There is one way that parties in Japan are superior to those in the States: no driving. Most everyone takes public transportation and that stops running around midnight. So what does one do then? When you are d one drinking for the night, find a couch or a futon or a nice bit of floor space to crash out on for awhile, or until morning. No drunk driving, no worries. I'd like to bring this practice back to Seattle, but people in the States are perversely attached to their own beds.




















Anyway. Since giant Western-style pumpkins are a novelty in Japan,





Japanese pumpkin (you can hold it in one hand)











Western pumpkin












Jeff held a pumpkin-carving contest. Actually, he carved them all, the contest was for the design of the two not being designed by the 3 kids present. (Another funny thing: pumpkins do not like this climate. Within a couple days, the carved pumpkins started growing white and green fur inside. No gradual appearance of black spots here, no. Full-on fur and a really bad smell.)

It was a relatively normal party, people eating a ton, drinking more, listening to music, talking, la-di-da.

And then the sudden appearance of the guy in a horse head and tighty-whities. This guy had earlier told me, when I had demanded to know where his costume was, that he had a "secret costume." I thought he was just being lame. I was wrong. This one goes in the Top Ten Most Surreal Moments in Japan. To drive it home, he pulled down his tighty-whities to expose -- another pair of tighty-whities.




















Later in the night, lots of costume-trading was going on, most notable of the items making the rounds were the horse head and the wig. Both of which we have ended up with, post-party, along with some other random bits of costume and clothing (yes, Martine, we have your sweater, jumper, or whatever).




















These shenanigans are well-documented by the party's own Event Photographer:















Martine actually set up portraits, Prom-style. Check out all her wonderful photos here.

































Inferior, but still amusing, pictures from my camera can be found here.

Somehow, because it was Jeff's mission, we got up the next day (which was new-washed and gorgeously sunny) and went to Kawasaki for the Halloween Parade. Totally worth it. Jeff said he actually got tears in his eyes three times, because he was so proud of their efforts on his favorite holiday.


































































































More pics of the beautiful mayhem here. Do yourself a favor and watch the slideshow. Once again, the Japanese beat us at our own holiday.

On the day before Halloween, the kids received their annual Halloween Package from Aunt Karla (thanks Aunt Karla!). She outdid herself this year. I only wish we had gotten it before the party, because the body-parts from the Cannibal Store would've been great props.





























Jeff spent the night before Halloween packing goodie-bags full of candy, because he was not about to be shamed again. He took this very seriously.















The neighborhood will soon be full of little Japanese kids bouncing off walls because of all the super-sweet American candy he got on the base.















The neighborhood moms love Jeff.















If you don't have a kid as an excuse for trick or treating, you can use your dog.





























M helped















Kumi came, too.




















So, Halloween is over for another year, and we have redeemed ourselves in the eyes of the Japanese, I hope. Now Jeff goes out of town for 10 days, to return for D's Birthday. I plan on watching a lot of movies at night. Any recommendations?

Sunday in the Park With Hakan

Do you remember Hakan? The teacher who took us to a Turkish restaurant a few months ago? Last Sunday, we returned the favor and gave him a slice of Americana: Sunday Brunch at the New Sanno. Such a spread. My eyes were WAY bigger than my stomach, but I discovered that I do, in fact, like Eggs Benedict. I always thought I didn't. They also had a drink called Russian Brunch: champagne, vodka, and OJ. Packs more punch than a mimosa. Yum.





























After, we walked off the brilliant amount of calories by strolling to the Imperial Palace East Gardens. It was a ridiculously sunny day, and everything was overexposed and green.
































































































































Apart from the usual gardeny stuff, there was a section that had small stands of different varieties of bamboo. I thought these two interesting, especially the green-stripey one:







































There was also a Music Hall. If it looks really out-of-place and kinda 1960s, that's because it was built in the 60s for the Empress. It looks cooler up close, where you can see all the neat mosaic:




















I thought it looked rather pretty against the extremely blue sky.

After, we strolled through the Ginza and ogled all the must-have handbags and chandeliers in stores we could never afford. We found a place for early dinner that was quite good, or at least my sandwich was: pumpkin and mushroom. Sounds weird, I know, but it was so intriguing and delicious that I've decided to recreate it for our Halloween party. Pumpkin, right?















Said party is tonight. Jeff at first resisted the idea of a having a bunch of drunk people in costume at our place (his party side at war with his don't-piss-off-the-neighbors side?), but Macky and I wore him down in the end. Too much hassle and last-minuteness to try and have it in a bar or somewhere. Don't have to find a sitter, drive, or worry about other people getting home (plenty o floor space). Costumes are more difficult, since there's no such thing as Display & Costume here (someone should open one), but we'll do our best. So next post's pictures will be undoubtedly bizarre, and hopefully we will have gotten through it without souring our relations with the neighbors.

update

Sorry, the bar was called King Pelican.

and here's some more pics of us getting digitized.

Something to Blog About

I kept putting off posting this week: all I had to offer was a couple party and BBQ pictures, and that wasn't really inspiring me. Then Macky sent us this email:

abbey brought this talk. A certain foreign game company will hold a rollout tomorrow nite. free booze and a meal arrive and can be given it of XXXX yen. There is the photography, too. they want to make some promotion video maybe. its gather at Omori Station in 7:30pm. A bus comes to pick you up. Do you participate?

We were intrigued, although not really sure what he was talking about. Macky said he would babysit, giving us a rare night out for the two of us, so we said what the hell. Free food and booze, and a possibility of making a little cash on top of it, so why not?

The next day, he emailed more information:

I confirmed the details.

The set is Omori Station during half past 7 from 7:00. If arrive; of xxx-xxxx-xxxx please talk on the telephone. Mr.Tagami (the master ring charge of abbey's company) and a saying human being seem to go to it to meet you by car. There is the game that a company called MOZOO gives in Microsoft system for Europe and America and seems to want to record movement as the part of visitor of the scene to play in that. It is have fun by the performance in what a band comeand seem to play U2. Therefore beer and a light meal seem to come. So it seems to be different that there are a lot of foreigners else and seems to have a party. The guarantee is XXXXX yen by around 10:00 from 8:00.

The only thing that was clearer from this message was that Macky was using an automatic translator. Was it a premier party? A video shoot? A trick to round up gaijin and put them in a camp? If I'm going to be filmed, what do I wear? Tattoos showing or hidden? Tho I made sure I washed my hair, at the current state of growing out mind-of-their-own curls, I'm never sure how it's going to come out. Would it look cute or frizzy today?

Happily, my hair looked pretty good. We didn't know what was coming, but we took the train to Omori.

We called the number we were given and we were given instructions by Pete, a helpful English speaker at the site. We got in a cab and handed the phone to the driver, who received directions. We drove for quite aways from the station, into a very warehouse-y area. We understood that we were going to a studio, so we weren't too nervous that we were going to be locked up in a warehouse. The driver found the place and we were met outside by a Japanese guy who paid the driver and showed us inside.

It was a huge black space. The first thing I noticed was a band out on the floor. Their instruments were flat black (pretty cool), and they were dressed in spandex, dotted with little silvery balls. I knew immediately that they were outfitted in those CGI mapping suits, or whatever they are called. I saw it in the behind-the-scenes of Lord of the Rings. It's how they did Gollum.

We were ushered to a corner with comfy seats and met two other guys: Pete from NJ/NY, and Adam from Cleveland, of all places (Lakewood, specifically, no, he's not gay, for those of you who know that Lakewood has the largest gay population in the US outside of SF). They are both young guys in the gaming industry, working as translators. They've been here for years.

We were given beer and snacks, sat around a bit, and learned a little bit about what we were going to do. We were going to be a "crowd" at a U2 concert, for some Guitar Hero-like video game. They wouldn't tell us the name of the game, and we don't know if it'll be used for promo purposes, or the actual game, or what. Apparently they wanted foreigners because our body dynamics are different from Japanese. Having seen Japanese girls at shows "dance" in their cute-cute way, I believe this absolutely.

Then we learned that we were going to be outfitted in CGI spandex, too! With helmets. So much for the agonizing over wardrobe. And so much for my cute hair!




















We all got suited up in three layers of the tightest things I've ever worn. Worse for the boys, tho, who are totally unused to wearing tight clothes in general. Adam, Pete, and I got balled-up (Jeff was an alternate and a background crowd filler).
















































We were photographed in various poses, and then the real fun began. "U2" came out (a young Seattleite with a Robert Sean Leonard smile was the lead, the rest of the band Japanese), and we jumped around, danced, clapped, woo-hooed, and generally acted as if we were seeing U2, our favorite band, live (I'll say your band is my favorite, too, if you pay me enough). It was just the entrance, a verse, and goodbye-thank part of the show, like 4 or 5 times. We altered our show-watching and dancing styles (rocker, hippie-trance fan, whatever) each time. I am going to be a thousand women!




















That was pretty much it. The whole thing took like 2 hours, and we got beer, bento boxes, and and yen for it. And a blog entry. Sweet.

Group shots. The "band":















all the players:















Adam and Pete said they'd keep their geek-feelers out, so they can find out what game this is and our part in it, and let us know what they find out.

Jeff and I went to a funny little bar in Kawasaki after, and then to Namamugi, to an Irish pub called King Crane. Jeff somehow got Tomoi and Norichan to show up (they live like a minute away from the bar), tho Tomoi had said he was sleeping when Jeff called. I'm kind of hurting today, but it was worth it.

Anyway, here's pics from the 2 BBQs and the party last weekend. One school BBQ:




















one BuzzBQ (this guy was already sleeping on the bench when we got there to help set up, and woke to a full-swing party, poor guy):















and Shingo's birthday party. Helen and I gave him the mask-tiara-boa set, and everyone had to try it on:
























And this, just because it's funny, is James Brown rubber ducky from the Kawasaki bar.















Oh, and apparently we are having a Halloween party. Wish I could've kept the CGI suit for a costume.

Okinawa!

Ah, Okinawa...not the trip I expected, but nothing wrong with it. I don't even care that there was a typhoon that kept us from snorkeling and other beachy activities.

I think some of the friendliest people in Japan live in Okinawa. Everyone we met in Naha (nihonjin and gaijin alike) said they tried Tokyo and hated it. The vibe is much more laid back in Okinawa, kind of like the west coast of the US vs the east coast. I think it's the weather, which is warmer all year, giving it a more tropical feel. Indeed, there were hibiscus flowers everywhere, and cool windy trees (whine-dy not win-dy). Lots of folks in aloha shirts instead of suits. Random people smiled at me.

Our first order of business was to check into our minshuku. It looked nothing like the picture from the website, at least not on the outside.







I don't know what Greek seaside village they took that photo in, but the Minami-Kaze was right at a busy intersection, sandwiched between some other buildings. Whatever, we didn't come to Okinawa to hang out in our guesthouse.

Next on the agenda, what there was of one, was to locate the tattoo shop. We had found One Shot Tattoo online (MySpace of all things), and they looked like they had a good portfolio. We found it, and scheduled separate appointments a day apart. Since we had given up on going island-hopping or swimming or anything like that, it didn't really matter.















So, we started our sampling of the local cuisine. There are some things Okinawa is known for, like these dishes, which I tried and will probably never eat again, if I can help it:















Goya with tofu and Spam (goya looks like a mutant cucumber and tastes like the bitterest thing you've ever had. Supposed to be good for you, naturally)















Tofu fermented in sake for four months. Helen liked this and ordered it another night. I couldn't even look at it the second night.















Sea grapes. Not bad, but not very interesting, flavor-wise. Like not-salty roe, only it's a kind of seaweed.

We also tried the local shochu, which is called awamori, mixed with shikuwasa juice. Yum. Shikuwasa look like this:











A few of these, and some music, led us down a side street to Ti-Da, a neat little bar. The owner is a guy called Teru, who is also a dive instructor and is single "because he hasn't found the right woman." (we found out later that he's married. No secrets in a small town).















He introduces us to his friend the sanshin sensei (sanshin is the Okinawan shamisen), who treated us to an impromptu concert.



I was some sheets to the wind by this point, and didn't realize that I can't videotape sideways with my camera (and turn it around later, I mean). I apologize for the stiff necks and this is what the guy looks like right side-up:




















Teru then took us to his buddy's bar down the road (in a taxi, for what was probably a 5 minute walk). The bartender was half Brazilian. Apparently there are a lot of Japanese in Brazil, who knew? I spent most of the time talking to the guy next to me, a Mongolian who rides horses in the traditional Mongolian way (standing up, wooden saddle). Pretty interesting.

Rolled out of bed slowly the next day, had brunch, and Helen went off to get her tattoo while I shopped. Here's the tat, very cute:















Here's where I shopped, in the famous Kokusai-Dori's indoor market:















Tons of omiyage with these guys on them:















They are called Shi-sa (or si-sa, depending on who's spelling it), and they are the dog-guardians of Okinawa. I also found a sanshin shop. I wanted to get one for Jeff, but the real ones were prohibitively expensive and as they are covered with snake skin, taboo for export:















After the tattoo, we had some time before dinner, so we took the monorail to the end of the line and the Shuri Castle. It's different than other Japanese castles, as Okinawa was it's own kingdom for awhile, and had a lot of Chinese influence. Much more colorful. It had a nice little tea shop that gave us unlimited jasmine tea and little local cakes for 300 yen. Yum.















Traditional dancing:





























The king's cool hat:















There were also a lot of lovely trees:















This one actually is two trees: the inner stump is a super-old tree that was damaged by the war, among other things, and a new tree wound around it:




















For dinner, we went to a place that was recommended by a friend of Helen's. It was made to look like it was outdoors, though it wasn't, and had live traditional music. The food was much more palatable to me. Had some local sashimi (not as good--I am told that warm-water fish are not as good as cold-water fish), some wonderful little tempura'd bits of something that was either fish or vegetable, pickled papaya (or mango, I can't remember), and some other stuff that Helen ordered for us (like always).

Here's the music, kinda neat, if repetitive:


We located Paul & Mike's, the Canadian bar advertised on the tourist map. We met some interesting foreigners, including Paul himself:















Very friendly place. Sadly, the building housing it is going to be torn down, but happily, Paul is soon opening another bar called Rehab, so look for it if you're ever in Okinawa and tell Paul we said hi.

Here, we were treated to another impromptu concert by a self-taught Irish fiddler. Only in Japan can you see a Japanese guy playing Irish music in a Canadian bar:



The next day, I got my tattoo. Here it is (and my cool Okinawa hat):




















Dinner that night was at a totally different kind of place, also recommended by Helen's friend. It was a funny little place, run by a busy friendly little loud woman who kept bringing us free food. They are famous for goat-meat there, tho they don't usually have it anymore. Lucky for us, there was supposed to have been a big festival that weekend, which was canceled due to the typhoon, so they had a bunch of goat on hand. She asked us if we wanted tamako (is that right, Helen?), which are, you guessed it, goat testicles. How could we pass that up? They weren't bad, actually, though larger than I expected. Kinda, dare I say it, creamy. We also had goat sashimi, which was chewy. Both items had a very tough skin on, which was kind of like chewing rubber bands. We had a good giggle about how they get the hair off: shaving? waxing? Time for your Brazillian, Billy!















Helen eating goat balls:















We went back to the Canadian bar, where, for some reason, I had drinks bought for me by a random ex-US-military biker-looking guy who liked my new tattoo and a suited Japanese man who liked my Black Devil cigarettes. Like I said, very friendly. Our flight was at 8 am the next morning, so we decided not to go to sleep. We closed the bar and followed Paul and the fiddler to a sports bar to watch the rugby semi-semi finals (or something). I tried to follow it, but alas, my Americaness betrayed me and I hadn't a clue.

I need to go back there, and experience the other Okinawa, the beautiful beaches and clear waters and all that. There is supposed to be an amazing aquarium, too. I saw pictures. There were whales.

Thanks, Helen, and all you Okinawans, for a great trip!

Here's your Moment, jars of habu-sake, jars of awamori with whole snakes in them (Jeff has tried this, so ask him). It's supposed to be good for you: